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Cite sources in APA, MLA, Chicago, Turabian, and Harvard for free. Image-2-1024x495.png' alt='Id Photo Maker Serial Number' title='Id Photo Maker Serial Number' />Chronode. VFD A Cyberpunk Wristwatch johngineer Best of genre Awesome no nonsense build. William Gibson seriously. The Chronode. VFD is a personal project Ive been working on for a couple of months. Wondershare Data Recovery Serial Key. Its a wristwatch built around the IVL2 75 VFD display tube. I originally purchased a few of these tubes to build a standard desk clock, but after playing around with them, I realized I could probably build a wristwatch too. The tube has a number of features which make it more suited than most Soviet surplus VFDs for this purpose. A filament current 2. V, but still works with 3. A 1. 2. V. Its small  only 1. Its flat, as opposed to the round tubes like the IV 1. Id Photo Maker Serial Number' title='Id Photo Maker Serial Number' />V up to 2. Vpulls only about 2. Asegment from the grid rail 1. V. 8 2. 0m. AOne other feature that I like about this device is that unlike nearly every other VFD tube, the IVL2 75 has no opaque or diffuse backing behind the digits. Its completely transparent front to back, which means that if you put it on top of a circuit board, you can with a bit of backlighting see the PCB below. IVL2 75. The single biggest constraint on a project like this is the power supply. Id Photo Maker Serial Number' title='Id Photo Maker Serial Number' />Because this is a costume piece that Id only wear occasionally, I decided I wouldnt mind if the battery only lasted 6 1. However, I didnt want it to be uncomfortable to wear or excessively bulky, so my options for battery power were limited. Coin cells were out because the internal resistance was too high to meet the current requirements, so I was left with AA and AAA single cells. I decided to go with alkaline cells, since the lower nominal voltage of Ni. MH rechargables would mean an even lower efficiency for the boost converters, and less current for the filament. The finished project can be used with either 1x. AA or 1x. AAA alkalines with the appropriate clips, however AAAs only last about 2 hours, so Im sticking with AAs for now. The Circuit. The circuit is pretty straightforward. The core is an Atmel ATMega. AVR, and the real time clock is a Maxim DS3. The DS3. 23. 1 is nice because its an all in one solution it has a 3. Hz temperature compensated crystal and capacitors built in, so the only external component required is the backup battery. However, the DS3. I happen to have a tube of them left over from another project, so I decided to use it in this design. There are other, much less expensive RTCs available which would work quite as well BYO crystal, though. The VFD display is driven by a Maxim MAX6. V outputs. The 1. Bully Scholarship Edition Pc Save Game Chapter 5. Its easy to use and very reliable and compact. It really is the only chip of its kind, so its a tad expensive. Its also possible to drive the VFDs using a bunch of discrete components, but that was impractical here due to space constraints. If youre interested in that, you should check out Riad Wahbys excellent in. Grid clock build, which describes his discrete HV driver circuit in some detail. The circuit is powered from 3 voltage rails. The first is the battery voltage itself, which is used to drive the display filament switched by the micro with a low side MMBTA4. NPN. The battery voltage also feeds into the 5. V boost converter MCP1. SOT2. 3 6, which drives the 2 rail. This 2nd rail powers the AVR, DS3. MAX6. 92. 0 logic, as well as acting as the input voltage to the second boost converter NCP1. SOT2. 3 5, which produces the 1. V VFD grid voltage the third rail. The NCP1. 40. 3 is enableddisabled by the microcontroller, so its only in operation when the display is lit, which helps limit current draw from the battery. I included jumpers 0. I could switch the filament power from the battery to the 5. V rail, in series with a current limiting resistor. In this configuration, the filament stays at a steady brightness for the life of the battery, and the display is brighter. However, the load on the 5. V rail is higher, and considerable power is wasted as heat through this resistor, so the battery life is significantly shortened. Also included on the board are a number of sensors one analog and two digital. The analog sensor is a phototransistor used to detect the ambient light level Q2. The digital sensors include a BMP1. MMA8. 65. 3 accelerometer, to detect movement. Neither of these are populated in the photos above, though I may decide to add them in the future. Both digital sensors share the I2. C bus with the DS3. I2. C breakout is provided on the bottom left edge of the board, for troubleshooting or expansion purposes. Isuzu Manual Repair Rodeo. Other headers on the board include a 6 pin FTDI serial block, breakouts for two AVR ADC inputs one is used by Q2, and test points for the battery voltage and boost converters. The AVR ISP 6 pin header is on the underside of the board beneath the display, to allow programming after assembly is complete. Construction. In addition to the circuit board, there are a number mechanical innovations featured in this build that need to be pointed out. The most obvious is the brass tubing that frames the display what my friend Micah calls the roll cage. The roll cage is a prominent visual element, and a nice accent that imparts a cool steampunk vibe to the design, though its purpose is practical. To wit Ive battered and beaten up every wristwatch Ive ever owned, and I wanted to mitigate against damage to the glass VFD tube. The cage is built from extruded brass tubing sometimes called telescoping tubing, because each size nests inside the next size up, with a clearance of less than 5 mils. This makes it well suited to the type construction used here thinner straight pieces fitted into slightly larger elbows. This brass tube is commonly available from hobby and train stores and Amazon, and its used often for scratch building model engines and locomotives. Its available in every size from ID13. ID 12. I made the elbow pieces using 18 OD stock in an inexpensive tube bender. As purchased, this tubing arrives in a hardened state, so when its used in the tube bender, the wall tends to collapse a little bit note the dimples on the outer surface of the elbow pieces. If I wanted to maintain the integrity of the tube during a bend, Id have annealed the tubing first. However, I needed a tighter turn radius than youd get with annealed tubing, so I didnt bother. Structurally, its still strong enough for what I need it to do. If I wanted to reinforce the corners, I could always place a solder fillet on the inside of the bend. The roll cage is soldered to the PCB at four points plated through holes slightly larger than the OD of the straight brass tubing. This allowed me to plan the placement of the cage during PCB layout, and also allowed me to use one of my spare PCBs as a precise fixturing jig while I put together the various pieces of the cage. To make the elbows I placed a full or near full length piece of stock in the tube bender, bent it to 9. I then used various needle files to dress it down to the proper size, and clean up the rough edges. Theres enough slack length in the design that didnt have to precisely match all of the elbows to the same size, though I did try to get them close. Likewise, the straight pieces were cut to approximate size using the hacksaw, and the ends dressed appropriately. The watch band for this project is a leather cuff I bought on Amazon. I like it because it looks good, has multiple mounting points if youre creative, and its comfortable to wear.